Por Antonio Ximenes

Solimões River, Amazonas, Uatumã, Juruá and the Amazon skies. It was an expedition of light, through the Jorge Bodansky and his crew’s eyes. From September 13th to October 2nd 2008, the Navegar Amazônia OSCIP navigated the fluvial arteries of the planet’s biggest drainage basin. On board of the Sebastião Borges boat, on a Grand Caravan wings, on motor-boats and through tracks in the middle of the forest, five men and two women offered the inhabitants from four conservatory unities (Mamirauá, Catuá-Ipixuna, Uatumã e Uacari) the opportunity to register their everyday life using video and photography workshops.

Aiucá, at the Solimões River margins; Bela Conquista, a branch of the same water course, at the RDS Catuá-Ipixuna; Maracarana, at the Uatumã River, that disembogues in the Amazon River; and Bauana, at the channel Juruá: these were the locations that received the narrator of light, at the planet’s biggest tropical forest. What we will get to know from now on are the fragments of this human adventure, that, even on the 21st century did not withhold registering the scenes of centenarian practices of the traditional population that lives in the farthest secluded corners of a “Brasil-Caboclo”, which insists in resisting abandon, forgetfulness and the lack of tenderness of a country that finds very difficult to look in the eyes of this “green-people”. They face diseases, the long distances when they navigate, wild beasts, the absence of public policies and they never lose the smile on their faces. With those smiles, they show invariably, the few teeth they have got left.

During the expedition, the rebelliousness of those who know they own the forest, could be seen very clearly on the cameras lenses. Whoever observes carefully the characters of this saga will notice a crossing light emanating form a people that rules Nature’s mysteries, and who knows the dimension of their importance, in a moment when humanity is paying a high price for the environmental aggression.

The riverside people and the caboclos know that if nothing is done at the present, now, immediately, all of those things that constitute on biodiversity, culture, fauna, flora and even civilization, can turn into a sad chapter of destruction in the History of mankind. “We have done what we could, but the problems we face are bigger than our resources. The country cannot stay so far away from us and the forest”. With these words, the Bela Conquista community leader Zagaia sums up the drama of the forest and river people.

The struggle to refrain the advances of destruction is very arduous. On the horizon, we can see smoke, in the rivers the fishes are vanishing, men and women are fading with malaria, the lack of basic sanitary conditions, the absence of doctors, few schools, not enough transportation, rudimentary living facilities, and the continuous extinction of several species. And in the middle of the “green sea”, wisely resisting, is the caboclo, the main character of this Navegar Amazônia expedition, during nineteen days of surprises and fascination.

RDS UACARI, IN THE MIDDLE JURUÁ, CITY OF CARAUARI

After the comfortable Sebastião Borges, where life is easier than at the communities that were visited – the boat had a great infrastructure, which included a daily home made bread, air conditioned cabins and work room, balanced meals, refreshing showers and a very solicit crew – Bodanzky’s crew left the Uatumã river channel. It was a seven-hour boat ride from the Maracarana community to the improvised Morena port, at Presidente Figueiredo city. Commander Almir, caring for his passengers, determined that the boat crew should handle the luggage disembarking. Very quickly, hammocks, video cameras, cameras, tripods, computers, were all on top of a steep bank, where an eleven-seat van was waiting for the “gang”. “Seu” Wilson, the driver, settled the baggage in the tight trunk, and, as everyone was getting ready to go, Beto Lacerda, Navegar Amazônia’s executive, remembered that there were a few beer cans in the boat’s fridge. “Let’s get that ammunition”, said Beto, making everyone laugh. Beto is well-know for his good humor. Having put the beer in the van, we ran to continue our expedition. Ahead of us there was 36 km of hard soil roads and 12 wooden bridges. After many roles, mud and bumps we got to the hydroelectric power plant Balbina. We left the Uatumã river waters three hours and forty-five minutes later, and arrived at Manaus. Exhausted but happy, the crew members settled at Hotel Talissa.

Around ten-thirty AM the next morning, right after breakfast, the expedition seven members, accompanied by Laura and Ricardo from the Isobar agency, and Otaviano, a journalist from Bradesco, o Banco do Planeta, visited the headquarters of the Fundação Amazonas Sustentável, at Parque Dez, a neighborhood in Manaus. Rested and excited, everyone went to lunch at Palazzolo restaurant. Rump steak and Tambaqui fish are predominant on the menu. After the meal, the group divided, and Laura, Ricardo and Otaviano stayed in the city for a little longer before returning to São Paulo. Bodanszky and his crew accompanied the journalist Ximenes to the International Airport Eduardo Gomes, and after that, they left to Carauari.

At the runway, a Grand Caravan, where the experienced pilot “Manequim” waited for us to embark. At three-thirty PM, after an hour and a half delay due to the shipping of equipments to the Bauana community, at the RDS of Uacari, the pilot shouted: “Guys, I can’t hold on any longer. We’re taking off. We are risking not being able to land at Carauari Airport”. Landings at that airport can only occur from four to six-thirty PM. The runway is close during all other hours, due to the presence of black vultures.

Manequim worked for many years in the Roraima garimpo . From those times of wealth, all that is left is small lump of gold, the size of a one Real coin. He carries it on a cord around his neck. “It gives me luck and brings me good memories”, says the pilot.

On board, there were a total of 11 people. Incorporating the team were also Doctor Luiz Leite and nurse technician Ivone Fonseca da Costa. Jorge Bodanzky, who, besides being a filmmaker and a sailboat pilot, is also an amateur airplane pilot, installed himself at the co-pilot’s seat. Instead of handling the control lever, he had his camera in hand. “I have a pilot’s license”, he said, excited about the trip. In the back seats, the photographer Jorge Vismara and cinematographer and Jorge Pennington also held their work tools.

Through the windows we can see winding rivers, the splendorous forest, heavy clouds and a sunny sky burning blue. “It’s a green carpet”, said Vismara, pointing his Canon to the forest. Pennington registers everything with his camera. In the back of the aircraft, the doctor told stories about the removal of patients during high risks situations. The actress Vicky Justiniano and Beto Lacerda listened carefully the adventures of the health professional, who has made the medical air caring his main activity. Ralph, the video workshop coordinator photographed the view. Alice Bodanzky felt good and was also taking pictures. Ximenes, the journalist, observed everyone and thought about his kids (Jordi, Francisco, Maria Clara, Antonio Miguel e Mariana). “How I wish they were here, looking at the forest”.

As he watched the clouds, Manequim announced that there was rain coming. In the forest, rain is always a reason to worry, especially if you are inside a small airplane at about 3.200 meters high. Suddenly, a gust of wind passed, changing everyone’s faces. But Manequim’s ability was so great that the passengers calmed down. Jorge Bodanzky, Alice, Vismara, Ralph and Pennington filmed and photographed. Vicky e Beto observed the scene. The doctor and the nurse, who are used to the abrupt changes in the Amazon skies, were lively chatting. The journalist, silently prayed, which you can never overdo in times like these.

Fifteen minutes later the weather was clear again and a peaceful feeling involved the Grand Caravan, cruising straight ahead Carauari. Ecstasy, that is the word. Ecstasy, that was the general feeling inside the airplane. We landed at six forty-five PM, just five minutes after the permitted schedule. Very quickly, Manequim got the entire luggage out of the plane and announced that he was leaving to Tabatinga, where he would pick up a patient to be transported to Manaus. That was the reason why the doctor and his inseparable assistant were on board. “Have a nice shoot!” Manequim yelled, saying farewell to the crew. Ten minutes later, Bodanzky and his “gang” were getting into the trunk of a very potent pickup truck, heading towards Hotel Tatiana.

Installed in little air-conditioned apartments, the “image expeditionaries” had no idea they would still have to navigate for eight hours up the Juruá river, the high sun on their heads, up to the Bauna igarapé, at the Reserva de Desenvolvimento Sustentável de Uacari (Uacari Sustainable Development Reservation), where the video and photography workshops would take place. But that is another part of this trip, which we will tell you, slowly but surely, like those who navigate a hand made canoe. Follow us. You are Navegar Amazônia’s special guest.